Wharton Journal

Issue date: 9/21/09 Section: News

C- lounge: 9 PM. The Mediterranean Sea is just 30 meters away and 12 floors under. The blue dark mass of water is surrounding the city's waterfront and Corniche walk. Boats are cruising slowly but surely. Low music, many smiles, wine and finally the trek starts. I identify faces I haven't seen for a while, excitements anticipation and a gut feeling that a once-in-a-lifetime journey is about to start.

Travelling to Lebanon does not resemble any other trip you have ever been on. You don't just pack and leave to Lebanon, making sure you have your bathing suit, sunglasses, some books, or any other item a traveler would require on a normal vacation in a sunny Mediterranean destination. You go to Lebanon to be part of something bigger, older and surely more fun and exciting. The first Wharton trek to Lebanon transported 40 Whartonites (among 110 wait listed) to the true heart of the Middle East and Arab World. On their trip, they discovered a modern vibrant culture where more than 18 religions, communities and ethnic groups have shaped this land of immigrants and emigrants. Land of the Canaanites, then the Phoenicians, Lebanon has been since the fall of the Roman Empire the nation of early Christians, Muslims, Jews and many people from as far as Europe, Africa and Asia. The modern state of Lebanon took shape in the 17th century (with the Princes of Mount Lebanon) and was transformed into a democratic Republic in 1920. Elections were introduced in the 1840s and since, Beirut quickly became a regional center for education (Americans exported their first educational product in the 1860s under the form of the prestigious American University of Beirut, a.k.a. AUB), healthcare, tourism and banking - hence Lebanon's name as the "Switzerland of the Middle East". Through today Lebanon is a financial hub absorbing up to four times its GDP in deposits and developing an economy based on professional services and agro industries (Lebanese food is too famous to be detailed in this article). Despite being in a troubled region, the Lebanese have never compromised on three important elements of their identity: Freedom of belief, speech and trade. Most importantly they preserved their diversity even in the darkest days of modern history: a lesson of humility in a region where arrogance, exclusion and fanatism became a daily bread.

Zoom on the ancient world

The trek offered the opportunity to visit many historic sites and natural reserves such as Cedar Forests and the 4th biggest water Grotto in the world, Jeita. Lebanon (land of milk and honey) is among the oldest countries in the world: Prehistoric villages and cities flourished along its coast and mountains; the country is described in the oldest writings ever found (beginning with the Gilgamesh Epic to the Bible, which mentions Lebanon 72 times). It gave the world the first alphabet, which later became the root of Greek, Latin and Semite alphabets such as Arabic and Hebrew. The bible describes how Jesus Christ turned water into wine in Qana in the South of Lebanon, and the Romans built one of their biggest hippodromes and temples dedicated to the Gods of wine and sun. Walking in Beirut gives you a sample of these civilizations combined with the city's unique style and modern architecture, inspired by the Arabs, Italians, French and Ottomans.

How about some action?

After a full day of sightseeing and visits, Whartonites had some time to relax at the pool before hitting the night. Every night was an occasion to discover a different aspect of the country's active nightlife: Fine dining, rooftop clubs, bar hopping till dawn, or just a nice chilled café in the courtyard of a traditional villa or by the sea... In true MBA fashion, I will back my statements with facts that will make your fellow colleagues proud of their summer achievements. At Music Hall, a renowned live music cabaret show in Beirut, the crowd consumed 19 bottles of vodka, 6 of whisky, 4 of wine, and 4 rounds of shots in just a couple hours. At Skybar, an epic rooftop club that attracts summer jetsetters from around the world, Wharton took over an entire section and dropped five 3-liter Magnums of vodka along with whisky and wine. For some, clubbing was an occasion to pimp it up with fine Cuban cigars while dancing on the table-tops. As for Oceana beach in South Beirut beware of putting 40 Whartonites in a pool with thumping house music and local Rosé wine.

Those who come don't leave the same

Talking about Lebanon's history is just an echo of its present and future. From a small country that fought the invasion of Alexander the Great, the people of Lebanon developed a capacity to push occupants out of their land with the same persistence and determination while attracting the most oppressed people (starting with the early Christian monks, the various Soufis sects of Islam, those who escaped Spanish Inquisition, Eastern Europeans, Armenians and recently Palestinians in quest for their rights). Many kings who tried to conquer Lebanon ended up absorbed by the charm of its people and determination to live free and prosperous. Saint Louis the IXth, supreme general of the Crusaders and then King of France, did not achieve his goals of conquering this part of the Holy Land: instead, he came back to France only to initiate a thousand year old friendship between these two countries. Many less "divine" tried to conquer Lebanon and ended up reinforcing the character of its people and their unique identity: the Mamlouks who came from the steps of Mongolia, their cousins the Ottomans and more recently the French, British and Israelis. This unique history was the background of the trek: a mixture of politics, economy and sightseeing combined with a heavy load of partying and little sleep. It is no wonder that both CNN and the New York Times rated Beirut as the best touristic destination for 2009.

In a nutshell, the trek offered a glimpse of this rich past and vibrant present: daily sightseeing, culinary explorations, beach getaways, elegant and wild nightlife and some interesting business meetings including an engaging conversation with the Governor of the Central Bank. After a week with maximum total of 5 hours of sleep, we all gathered at Abdelwahab restaurant for a last meal together: Plans for the coming years, exchange of emails and laughs... In few hours we all were taking the plane only to wake up in Philly and wonder if this journey was real or not: Everybody knows that what happens in Beirut stays in Beirut... forever!

Walid Mansour

On behalf of the Wharton Arabia 2009 Lebanon Trek Committee: David Abraham, Albert Sara, Wassim Moukahhal

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